Your Step By Step Guide to Treating Acne Scars, From the Expert Derms Themselves
- jennysmithmattfeldt
- Feb 24
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 11
By JENNY SMITH MATTFELDT Published February 24, 2025
This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you if you make a purchase through them. Please note that the information shared here is not a substitute for professional dermatological advice. Always consult a dermatologist for personalized recommendations.
If you've dealt with acne, you know that healing the active breakouts is just the tip of the iceberg. There's often redness, indentations, and hyperpigmentation left behind, all different types of acne scars.
Unfortunately, there’s a lot of misinformation out there about how to get rid of acne scars. According to Dr. Sam Ellis, you don’t even need severe acne to end up with scarring. Even mild acne can leave scars, especially if you pick at it while it's active, or if your genetics make you more prone to scarring. Many companies exploit this perceived insecurity to sell products, trust me, I know because I was the queen of trying every new product based on catchy marketing. Today, though, we’re going straight to the experts (the dermatologists) for the real, science-backed advice.
Before treating your scars, it's essential to first identify what type you're dealing with. There are two main categories: pigmentation scars, which are discoloration-based, and true acne scars, which involve physical changes to the skin. The type of scar you have will completely determine the treatments and products you should use.
Pigmentation Scars
Pigmentation scars are colored, non physical marks that remain on your skin after an acne breakout has healed. There are two types: Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH). While pigmentation scars are difficult to avoid after any skin damage, like a breakout, they are also the easiest to treat. In fact, they will naturally fade over time, even if you don't specifically target them. However, if you'd like to speed up the process, there are products that can help. To prevent these scars from worsening, it's essential to wear sunscreen daily, as sun exposure can darken these marks and make them harder to fade.
Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) scars typically last a few weeks to a few months. These scars are red or pink and usually fade faster than PIH because they are more superficial, involving the skin’s blood vessels rather than deeper layers.
Recommended By Dr. Muneeb Shah and Dr. Luke Maxfield
The Cicapair Tiger Grass Camo Drops ultilize color theory by using a green tint to neutralize redness. Not only does it immediately reduce the appearence of redness but it also contains sunscreen which prevents pigmentation from darkening any further.
Recommended By Dr. Samantha Ellis
Dr. Ellis recommends the Vitamin Concentrated Serum No. 5 by the Korean skincare brand Numbuzin. It contains rockstar brightening ingredients like glutathione, vitamin C, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid to lighten dark spots.
Recommended By Dr. Shereene Idriss
Dr. Idriss herself created the Major Fade brightening serum that fades the look of dark spots, discoloration, and hyperpigmentation. It has been clinically proven to improve the appearence of uneven skin tones, diminish the look of dark spots, and reduce overall discoloration.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) on the other hand, can take several months to even a year to fully fade. These scars appear darker than your skin tone (brown or purple) because they’re caused by excess melanin production deep in the skin, and are more common for those with darker skin tones. The duration depends on factors like your skin type, the severity of the pigmentation, and how well the skin is treated and protected (like using sunscreen).
Recommended By Dr. Muneeb Shah and Dr. Luke Maxfield
Dr. Shah and Dr. Maxfield recommend ingredients like retinoids, niacinamide, vitamin C and bakuchiol, all of which help lighten and brighten the skin or assist in cell turnover. The Paula's Choice repair serum is clinically proven to improve the look of dark spots and patches of discoloration.
True Acne Scars
When it comes to true acne scars we're talking physical, textural differences on the skin. There are two main types: atrophic scars, which dip inward and can be classified as boxcar, ice pick, or rolling, and hypertrophic scars, which rise above the skin’s surface. While plenty of products can support skin healing, treating physical acne scars usually requires in-office procedures for noticeable improvement. It has also been proven over the course of many studies that there are habitual ways to increase collagen production in your skin. Dr. Ellis explains that while tretinoin has been shown to help with some textural scars, particularly shallow ones, it won’t fully resolve deeper scars, which are notoriously stubborn and often need multiple professional treatments. It’s all about perspective, if you expect a product to completely erase deep acne scars you’ll likely end up discouraged. Topicals can help soften their appearance, but be prepared that you might need several in-office treatments to see real change.
Atrophic scars occur when there is a loss of collagen during the healing process, leading to depressions or indentations in the skin. These scars are further categorized into ice pick, boxcar, and rolling scars, each with its own shape and depth. There are endless in office options, each with varying levels of effectiveness, many of which I have tried.
Microneedling is an excellent starting point (and a JSM favorite!) where the needles penetrate deep enough to stimulate real collagen production (unlike at-home rollers) with numbing provided since the procedure can be painful at the proper depth.
Chemical peels, including TCA Cross, work by creating controlled damage to resurface the skin, TCA Cross is a targeted approach and it's particularly effective for ice pick scars but can cause temporary PIE scars. All-over peels help even out texture and can be great even with active acne, though they do come with downtime while your skin heals.
Lasers offer a highly targeted approach, with specific types designed to stimulate collagen and smooth texture, though not all are safe for every skin type, as the heat component can impact pigmentation.
Retinoids are a solid at-home option for maintaining skin health and improving mild texture concerns, but they’re nowhere near as effective as professional treatments.
Hypertrophic or keloid scars develop when the body overproduces collagen, creating raised, thickened areas of scar tissue above the skin's surface. Treating them often involves a combination of in-office injections to reduce inflammation, silicone gel (such as ScarAway) to soften and flatten the scar over time, and laser treatments to break down excess tissue and promote proper healing.
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